Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.
This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.
“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.
It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.
Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.
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